I am copying a simple design by someone else for a dog sled, my question is. I priced out alum vs steel for the frame. Its about the same cost, 35 bucks for mats. Now will one inch tubing 1/8 inch wall aluminum be durable to take stress that it would endure? (That's what im making the framework out of)
Doing the framework now, ill build a temporary wood box until I can build an alum box.
This will be my framework from a photo I found on here.
I have some old metal skis I plan on using because I feel they will be more durable than plastic.
I use a mountain sled for hunting (hitch is high), I want to get away from snow drag. I do have a box like your saying that I use now, that is great for packed snow sleds. A good friend of mine uses one similar to this but his framework would be difficult for me to make because his is machine cut out.
My frame is only 12" high and works great that frame looks like stainless I used alluminium once and had to add lots of gussets in the end it weighs just as heavy as steel I don't have a pic of just the frame I will try and get one but its basically a +with angle from axel to tongue
Thanks rigit. Also while we are talking about it, how did you guys do your hitchs? The setup I have now, has no give and is wearing out my hitch on the sled.
I did talk to the guy who made that one, it is stainless. I thought with alum it would help reduce weight.
That frame looks real similar to mine. Works just fine I like the extra clearance for the deep snow. as far as stability, its fine we are on roads ninety percent of the time. Our hitch is solid doesn't have a lot of flexibilety but we couldn't figure out a great system that wasn't solid.
Zach
Last edited by culverz on Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My thoughts on a hitch, was to cut off 6 inches or so of the hitch. Put a pipe welded into it with a bolt thru it, somehow add a spring maybe? And reweld it to the hitch.
I have tried the snowmobile skis and found that they do not float on top very well. Steel skis will get snow built up on the bottom and realy drag you down and they will freeze to the snow when stopped for a while. I would get plastic ski skins if you are set on those skis. I built my skis with 2" angle and have 1/2"x7"x 60" heavy duty plastic with a good swoop on the front for ditches and going over logs. On tongue I put a slide with old valve spings on each side so it kind of absorbs some of the shock and makes it easy to hook up because it has give both ways. I also built mine the same ski stance as my machine. My skis come off with a couple pins and my box i racket strap on that way I can lift it into my flatbed by myself. Those are just a few things I have had good luck with.
Heres a pic of mine. I have since added palstic ski skins and aluminum box instead of wood.
Fits upside down on top of the dog box on the truck then reversed for behind the snowmobile. I wanted to use the same box for the sled as on the truck so I wouldn't have to have 2 seperate boxes. Box is 30" x 48". Tongue folds back on the trailer so its outta the way.
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Once you go black, you'll never go back! Duncan big game Black and Tans.
Unreal-tk, I like the looks of the sled design although I'm not seeing how a dogbox fits on there. Unless maybe it's an airline kennel that sits sideways? I am in the process of building a aluminum sled myself. I was told not to do it becauce it cannot handle the stress but I'm going to do it anyway. I started out with everything being steel and plywood now most everything is aluminum.
Awesome setups guys, catdogs you gave me some ideas with that swing hitch!
Rico, here is a pic with a box on it (once again this was someone elses work, I am just borrowing it) the way the box sits in it by the photos is with 4 angle iron type deals positioned on the frame, with two spots to attach a ratchet strap.
Something that comes in real handy is a couple welded rings where you can snap leads to for those dogs that need to be on leads to collar or just getting ready to load or unload .
The reason that people shy away from aluminum is that it develops stress fractures at the points where it needs to be the most flexible. Although aluminum is lighter, it will constantly need to be maintined. That is, welding all of those stress cracks. In order to weld aluminum correctly, the area to be welded needs to be cleaned THOROUGHLY. As you use your sled, and it gets dirt and grime on it, the stress cracks will also get dirt inside them, making it impossible to clean out the crack completely. The best and most durable way to weld aluminum is with a Tig Torch (Heliarc). Any other method -- most back yard guys liks a Mig spool gun -- will not give the desired cleanliness and penetration. By the time you add a bunch of gussets to it in order to strengthen the corners and patch the places that continue to crack (which will not stop the cracking), your sled weighs as much as a steel sled, and costs 4 times as much.
I am a welder by trade, I have welded all sorts of metals and alloys, and I would stick with steel. The durability, along with the ease of repair, far out weighs any short term benefits of aluminum.
If you want to get the very best of all worlds, go with round chromoly tubing and have it Heliarced. It will be extra light, and NEVER need repaired.
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"What I really need is a system that when I push a button it will shock that dog there, when I push this other button I can shock the other dog over there, and a button that I can push to shock all twenty dogs at the same time!" - Clell Lee
Benny
When in doubt, ask someone that knows, not just claims to know.